17 May 2009
I love my perennials and put most of my planning efforts each year into choosing, moving, and planting them. Yet my garden would not be complete without annuals filling in when my perennials fade for their season.
My favorites are: marigolds, blue saliva, ageratum, begonias, pansies, zinnias, cosmos, cleome(pictured above), vinca, snapdragons(taller versions)and geraniums.
Unlike what is recommended I plant 3 plants(from pack of 6 or 4) together in one hole. I have found that this insures that I will have a larger plant sooner in the season and if one of the plants die it is not as apparent since the other two usually thrive.
I used impatiens for the first time this year and the rabbits ate every single one of them the very next day!! In the past I have had to keep my pansies sprayed with deer/rabbit repellent but I did not know they liked impatiens. Did a little research and found that rabbits favorites plants to eat are asters, hostas, hybrid lilies, impatiens, pansies and tulips. That being said if they are hungry enough the will eat anything and I just found evidence that they have been nibbling at my phlox and bellflower!!!
When researching this post I referred to gardenguides.com, howstuffworks.com, and University of Illinois.
When to plant
Don't be in a hurry to plant too soon. Most annuals cannot be planted until after all danger of frost and prefer warm soils and stable temperatures to grow well. In my area (zone 6) I usually plant on Mothers Day and I am fine.
The best time to plant is late in the afternoon. Before planting, water your plants and the soil in your bed well.
Where to plant
Most annuals like at least 6 to 8 hours of sun a day. There are many annuals that will do well in part shade or filtered sun. These include ageratum, browallia, coleus, dianthus, fuschia, impatiens, lobelia, pansy, salvia, Inca, and wishbone flower. Few if any annuals will do well in complete shade.
Soil
Majority of annuals prefer well-drained soil with a moderate humus content. If your soil is clay, you can amend it with compost or well-rotted manure
If your soil pH falls within the 6.0-7.4 range, you should be able to grow most annuals. If ph test reveals that your soil is too acid or alkaline, it can be altered with amendments, such as lime for acid soil and aluminum sulfate for alkaline soil.
How to plant
Lift plants from the cell packs or pots. The best way to do this is to either gently squeeze or push up the bottom of the container if pliable. Sometimes if the plant just doesn't seem to want to come out I gently tear the pack.
Gently break up the root-ball of annuals. Often, the roots have overgrown the potting area and become matted. You'll have to pull off the tangles so the roots will be able to grow freely into the soil.
Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball. I then put smart release plant food-"Osmocote" in the hole. I find fertilizing this way easier.
Place plant in dug hole at the same level or just slightly lower than they were grown in the container. Carefully put soil firmly around the roots.
Mulching
After annuals are planted, it is suggested that a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch be applied around the plants. Not only is it attractive, but it also helps conserve soil moisture, retard weed growth and keeps soils cool.
Watering
Water well after planting and keep moist until the plants are established and new growth has started.
Subsequently watering is needed when you test the soil by sticking your finger down 2-3 inches into the soil and it is dry. Remember, it's always better to check too often rather than not often enough. Don't wait until drooping plants indicate that the soil is parched.
Deep, infrequent watering is much preferred over frequent, light watering because it encourages a deep root system. Stop watering when the soil is moistened to a 4-inch depth. A good approach is to use an automatic sprinkler, letting it gently "rain" for an extended period of time. Check at half-hour intervals to see how deeply the water has penetrated. The best approach is soaker hoses which eliminate the problem of excess water on leaves and flowers that could lead to mildew or fungus problems.
Personally I still use sprinklers and water early enough in the day so the foliage dries off before nightfall.. I keep saying I am going to get soaker hoses but have not got around to getting them.
More on fertilizing and ongoing care....
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